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"Caveat Venditor" (Let The Seller Beware)

5/15/2013

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I've always like this bike. A1970s Dutch-made Gazelle A-Frame “Champion Mondial” model (from 1971), very lightweight (9.7kgs complete minus pedals) Reynolds 531 for all tubes.

A little battered cosmetically (some rust spots, the brake hoods are shredded, a mix of newer and original components) but still, if it were my size (it's a 54) I'd be riding it daily. It's snappy and crisp. But no theft magnet.

So, I was pleased when finally the other day, after … what 3 years of storage? Someone (Paul) came over to see it.

Paul said he was looking for another “project”. Only experienced bike people use the word "project". Paul it turns out, has a nice little collection of vintage bikes himself, and is very knowledgeable. Having lived in the UK and Amsterdam he's also had hands on collecting and dealing experience and so has become eagle-eyed (or shall I say "thorough").

What I hoped might be a sale to an appreciative buyer (always my favourite end result) however turned into an eye opening learning experience.

“Is this the original fork?” he asked. I said I thought it was but he thought it should have a Gazelle logo embossed into it.
He fingered the rust on the top tube at the cable guide. A spot of rust on a 35 year old bike is not unusual nor should it be a deal breaker. But Paul hesitated when he ran his finger along the underside of the top tube.

“This bike has had a front end accident” he announced.

That was news to me but when he showed me the slight ripple under the top tube (see below), it was obvious he was right. “That's why the fork has been replaced” he continued.

There then followed an awkward silence. That was the moment when Paul had to decide if I was honestly ignorant or deliberately deceitful. I hope he accepted my protestations that I honestly had no idea of the damage (I've tried to be overly upfront in all my dealings about flaws). I'd never suspected the frame had any problems (the ripple wasn't easy to see like a crack or a chip. Very subtle – until you look at it or for it.)

Nonetheless, I apologized for having wasted his time. After that point we were at least able to talk bikes. Paul sounds like he has a terrific and carefully curated collection of 6 vintage bikes (he was obliged to pare down his fleet during a recent move, due to lack of storage space. I sympathize.)

(I was glad at least to be able to drag out ANOTHER Gazelle Champion Mondial which had the exact same fork and so could prove that the first bike's fork was original too.)

Lesson learned though. As you can see from these pictures, a straight edge is pretty handy when checking out a frame. There are also simple alignment tests you can do with a long piece of string.

In the end Paul agreed that the frame was probably perfectly rideable. Steel is pretty tough. It just isn't suitable as a collector's item nor as a restoration project (the top tube would have to be replaced which would ruin the paint which would require an exorbitantly expensive repainting job.)

Fortunately it wasn't a very expensive purchase. So, it isn't that costly a lesson. And it still rides great I think. So, I'll probably still sell it. Though at a significant discount and with a big disclaimer.

Peter


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What do you mean by a "Touring" bike?

5/1/2013

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I've had two inquiries recently from people looking for "touring" bikes. Which prompted long replies asking what exactly they were thinking of and some basics of what to look for in a classic Randonneur-style "touring" bike.I thought I would repost them here.

Cheers Asad.
Eric's right. You want reliable and repairable.
And don't sweat a couple of extra pounds of bike weight. sounds like you are going to be carrying a pile of stuff anyway. I would rather have something sturdy and solid that weighed... 13kgs as opposed to a super lightweight 9.5kg frame that collapses under the load and stress.

Sounds like you are going fully loaded. (I am envious.) West to East?

Basically I don't have any true "touring bikes" (except for my own which is A) huge and B) is not for sale.) but I'll forward you a couple of exchanges I had with someone else who inquired recently about a "touring bike".
Some standard bikes can work well for moderate-load touring.
It comes down basically to whether you want/need front panniers. If so, you should probably want to seek out a classic Randonneur bike that has mounts on the front forks for a rack and cantilever brakes for a) quick stopping and b) easy fender clearance.

let me know if you have any other questions or if I can help.
BTW, what size frame do you require? or, what's your inseam?

if you find anything online or at a shop, feel free to shoot me the link or photo. I'd be happy to give my 2 cents.
Peter

On 5/8/2013 6:14 PM, craigslist reply 189d wrote:
Hey, I am interested in it, but I am also wondering if its a touring bike ??? I am specifically looking for one

Subject: What do you mean by "touring".?

If you mean classic fully-loaded touring with front and rear panniers, then No. This is not a classic touring bike (they have cantilever brakes, and eyelets in the front fork to which you can mount a front rack. see attached photos.

If you mean"touring" in the sense of day riding in the country, then Yes, this is a good choice (high quality steel frame)

Let me know any further information you have or need.

Peter

On 5/8/2013 7:13 PM, craigslist reply 189d wrote: Yes sorry....I mean fully loaded. To be able to go camping with.

those types of classic touring bikes are fairly rare. there were / are only so many people who wanted to go camping as opposed to the vast number who raced or who rode for recreation.
I have a classic touring bike but it is a 63 cm.

That said, IF you can find one in your size, they are not usually THAT expensive (unless you buy a new or newer one) because - there are not that many people who want them

You can buy a classic generic steel touring frame at Urbane Cyclist (full service LBS coop in Toronto) down on ... John street? for not a lot of money. I think they are selling them for ... $150. From that point you can build up.

Otherwise, ebay is a good source.

Cantilever brakes are like mountain bike brakes. The two arms are mounted onto the forks and rear seat stay and a triangle of cable pulls them closed. I think the advantage is A) they brake quickly (important if you are travelling with a heavy load) and B) they allow the easy installation of fenders.

note though that cyclocross bikes are easy to confuse with Touring bikes (also called "Randonneurs") except they do not have the eyelets on the front forks for front rack mounts.

Finally, a touring bike will usually have a triple front chain ring and will be geared so that it could climb any mountain, even with a full load.

Good luck!

Peter


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    Peter Stock, bike tour designer, cyclist and amateur road bike collector/dealer. Learning as he goes.

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